Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg

Loch Torridon

A hike up Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg begins from near the small village of Torridon, some 10 miles west of Loch Maree in Scotland's north-west highlands.

From Kinlochewe on the southern end of Loch Maree, the A896 travels westwards through Glen Torridon to Torridon village. This road is narrow and single track for the most part, and with being part of the NC500 scenic route, can be busy in peak holiday periods !

Having reached Torridon village, continue along the northern shore of Loch Torridon. The narrow road starts to climb and twist uphill, then flattens and drops to a car-park by the bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil. Some lovely waterfalls can be viewed from the bridge.

Although sizeable, the car-park struggles to cope with the influx of hillwalkers' vehicles in summer.

Torridon has been owned by the NTS since 1967, and therefore benefits from a fine network of paths, many of which have seen recent work.

Approaching Coire nan Laogh

Leave the car-park and cross the road, keeping to the western side of the bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil. The route up Beinn Alligin starts in undergrowth and rhodedendrons. The NTS work hard to maintain the path here, though it still can be a bit peat-mucky, particularly after wet weather.

Climbing a fairly gentle gradient at first, the path reaches a high deer-fence just above the 200m contour, fortunately there is a stile. Beyond the fence, gradient steepens slightly with the path occasionally twisting and turning up sections of rocky ground in the otherwise heather and grass covered terrain.

The ground levels with the path heading into Coire nan Laogh and meeting up with the Alltan Glas . By this burn is a fine place to pause and look back at the view over Loch Torridon.

Into the coire and ascent on a worn and loose path quickly steepens. The path crosses the burn higher up, then travels to a small cairn on the col between Tom na Gruagaich's summit and its south-western ridge heading over to Na Fasreidhnean.

From the col, turn sharp right (east) and the trig point standing on some rock on Tom na Gruagaich's summit is only a few strides further uphill.

Trig on Tom na Gruagaich, view to Skye

Trig on Tom na Gruagaich, view to Skye

Sgurr Mor from below Sgurr na Tuaigh

From Tom na Gruagaich's trig point, head north-west following the rim above Toll a' Mhadaidh Mor. After around 100m or so, the route turns northwards and height is lost while clambering down sandstone terraces. Although the route downhill is obvious, there is some easy scrambling on the way, with a couple of bits of hairy exposure on the right looking down into Toll Mhadaidh Mor.

Down at the bealach between Tom na Gruagaich and Sgurr Mhor, the boulders are left behind and progress is on grass-covered ground.

Changing to a more easterly direction, the path crosses a grassy knoll, drops a little, then begins climbing again. After a few zig-zags, the path splits with the more worn route veering away to the left of the crest ahead and a fainter path keeping to the crest.

The faint path leads to the top of Sgurr na Tuaigh, an abrupt point above a huge drop. The more obvious path avoids this dramatic drop and instead leads a safe point at the top of the Eag Dhubh - a gash that splits the south facing side of Sgurr Mor giving a fine frame for the view over to Maol Cheann-dearg in Coulin Forest.

Eag Dhubh just below Sgurr Dubh's summit

Eag Dhubh just below Sgurr Dubh's summit

On the first horn, approching the middle horn

Heading northwards for a short distance from the cairn on Sgurr Mhor, the path then turns north-eastwards and begins its descent towards the bealach between Sgurr Mhor and the 'Horns of Alligin'. There are no difficulties encountered on this worn path and the col is gained quite quickly.

At the col, and after climbing a few metres, the ground levels briefly to a short grassy ledge. Ahead and above an obvious path climbs up to the first of the Horns of Alligin , which is classed as an easy Grade 1 rock-scramble, as is keeping to the remainder of the crest. However in wet and windy conditions, it is possibly safer to keep slightly to the right of the crest to find easier ways up and over.

If you want to miss the Horns out altogether, then from the grassy ledge above the bealach, there is a faint by-pass path traversing on a grass-covered break on the south side of the ridge. This path re-joins the crest after the second horn. The third and final Horn can also be avoided by a path on its southern flank, which rejoins the crest once all difficulties are passed .

The descent on Beinn Alligin's south-eastern crest follows an obvious path with occasional cairns down a mix of grass and rocky sandstone bluffs. Lower down, heather is crossed and the path meets with another above the Allt a' Bhealaich.

The route travels down to a bridge over the Allt a' Bhealaich, then another over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil. After this second bridge, turn right and head back along the fine path tracing the southern bank of the river back to the car-park.

Approaching the final horn

Approaching the final horn

Beinn Eighe from Beinn Dearg

It's been many years since I continued onwards from Beinn Alligin to Beinn Dearg and a re-visit is overdue !

Adding in a direct ascent of Beinn Dearg to the itinerary with require hiking an additional 5km of distance and 650m of height-gain. A traverse of Beinn Dearg is much longer, but a far more enjoyable experience !

For a direct ascent, after descending the Horns of Alligin to around c350m and crossing the Allt a' Bhealaich, head directly up the fall-line ahead towards Beinn Dearg's centre and main peak. The grassy and bouldery ground gives way to sandstone terraces as height is gained. Though not difficult, the gradient is steep and the terraces will cause you to zig-zag as you climb pathless ground.

Further up, terrain is very loose and careful route choice is needed. The first time I climbed up this route, I slipped and cut my left forearm. That was many years ago and I've still got the scar to remind me !

Eventually the steepness subsides and the large cairn on Beinn Dearg's summit is reached. Reputably the cairn was built to ensure the highest point on the mountain reached the 3000ft contour ! Lacking in its neighbours' height, Beinn Dearg more than makes up, with some fantastic and unique views to these taller peaks.

Returning back down the steep terraced route taken up is not to be recommended ! I headed north-west up over easy ground to Stuc Loch na Cabhaig , then descended westwards down a steep and terraced hillside to lower ground to then pick up the path following the Allt a' Bhealaich downstream to return to the car-park.

Beinn Dearg summit from Stuc Loch na Cabhaig

Beinn Dearg summit from Stuc Loch na Cabhaig