A great route with well defined paths over high level ridges, alongside sharp gorges and through a hidden glen. There's only one tricky move on the Aonach Ridge in summer, however the ridge is a serious undertaking in winter conditions. Bidean nam Bian is the highest peak in Argyll, therefore the views from the main summit are vast and stunning. Doing this route anti-clockwise allows any morning dampness on the Aonach Eagach's north side to be dried off. The day is finished off with some fast steep downhill scree running and a pint back at the Clachaig Inn.
Getting there
The A82 passes through Glencoe a few miles east of Ballachulish. There are various car-parks in the glen, though in summer parking can be a real problem due to this area's fame and dramatic beauty.
Bidean nam Bian
At the western end of Glencoe, just beyond Loch Achtrioachtran there's a parking area, leave this, cross the bridge over the River Coe, go through a gate and start south on a well built path. The path heads uphill toward a waterfall and then follows the burn up, keep to the west side and continue up steep ground. The path reaches some scree followed shortly thereafter by the crest of the northern arm of Bidean nam Bian. Follow a path south along this ridge over easy sections and boulders to Stob Coire nam Beith, then after a slight drop and some more ascent while sticking to a path, the two heights of Bidean are reached. The summit is the easterly top, on which a small pile of boulders make a cairn. Being the highest point in Argyll, views from Bidean are amazing on a clear day.
Stob Coire Sgeamhach
Leave the summit and head south-east along a ridge, narrow at first, widening further on as the descent increases. Reach the bealach, then head up more bouldery ground to a crest, turn towards the north-east and the cairn on Stob Coire Sgeamhach is arrived at.
Down to the road via the Lost Valley
Return to the bealach, then with care, head down Coire Gabhail - loose steep ground is followed by a boulder field, then a new path is picked up. Good running down a gradual gradient crossing the occasion burn, the Allt Coire Gabhail is crossed and you're into the Lost Valley - a strange but wonderful place where the river disappears into the ground. The path continues down the east side of the glen and further down, the river needs to be crossed - if in spate, retreat back up the glen a bit, into the trees where the crossing is easier. Remain on the path on the west side of the river to reach a new gate through a deer-fence and follow the path down to cross the River Coe via an army constructed bridge over the deep and narrow gorge.
Meall Dearg
Directly uphill next on paths, cross the A82 to a small car-park below the eastern end of the Aonach Eagach ridge. A path leaves this lay-by and climbs steeply for around 150m, then drops a bit to meet up with a river - a good place to top up your water-bottle. Continue uphill on a worn path and grassy ground to reach the north-east arm of Am Bodach and some fine views over the Mamores to Ben Nevis. Continue up on some boulders then grass to Am Bodach's cairn. The next bit is tricky and sets the scene for the ridge -a sharp drop of 20m on rock, which can slippy if wet - keep to the crest which does a zig then zag to reach the safety of the path. No difficulties to reach the bealach then uphill to the east munro, Meall Dearg.
Sgorr nam Fiannaidh
Continue north-west on the obvious path downhill on the crest of the ridge. A narrow gap is followed by a climb of 15m up a chimney, then continue along the distinct path on ridge's crest, some slight difficulties on the way. Eventually the difficult secton of the ridge is reached with drops on both sides. Keep to the ridge on the north side and hug the two pinnacles, DO NOT take any paths that look as if they by-pass the obstacles - they're dead ends ! You'll now be confronted with a short steep exposed rise, there's no option but to head straight up it - it's easier than it looks ! That's the real difficulties over with, continue along the ridge with some more slightly tricky bits to reach Stob Coire Leith. The path continues along the ridge over easy ground to a bealach, then goes up some scree bits and boulders to the cairn on Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. Superb views in all directions, particularly back along the ridge just done.
Return
Return to the bealach, then head south-west on good running screes. The screes are replaced by wet grass and a path is picked up to follow directly back to your car.
Aonach Eagach ridge from the west
Looking along the ridge from Meall Dearg
A small hidden shelter below Glas Maol
Just past the pinnacles, looking back east
West from Sgorr nam Fiannaidh to Beinn a'Bheithir and Ardgour
Bidean nam Bian from Etive Mor
Bidean nam Bian from the Aonach Eagach
Looking up the Lost Valley
Approaching the bealach between Bidean and Sgreamhach
Busy day on Bidean nam Bian
South from Bidean to Etive, Starav and Cruachan
Sunart and Ardgour from Sgorr nam Fiannaidh
There are many paths heading up Bidean nam Bian
Ascent : 1200m, distance : 10.5km
Going up from the Achtriochtan car-park as already described, cross the river at a junction well above the waterfalls and head south-east uphill on a path to reach screes then the bealach between Stob Coire nan Lochan and Bidean nam Bian. Stob Coire nan Lochain is a fine summit with a path going north and another going east, both of which head down to Coire nan Lochan and back to the A82.
There is a path heading directly down from the Bidean nam Bian - Coire nan Lochan bealach south-east to meet up with the route described out of the Lost Valley.
From Stob Coire Sgreamhach, you can walk along a path to Beinn Fhada, then either drop, with care into the Lost Valley, or continue north-east along the ridge and drop to the new car-park, just west of the newly re- constructed bridge.
Aonach Eagach descent alternatives
Once on the Aonach Eagach, you'll either need to continue to the other end, or return back to the end you started - there are no escape routes on the south side of the ridge !
There are two other possible descent routes from Sgor nam Fiannaidh. From the summit head west over stoney ground for 700m to a slight rise. One descent route heads directly down to the Clachaig Inn, however this is worn and very loose and not really recommended. Another route heads for the road near the Red Squirrel campsite on a path that zig-zags through the ferns lower down.
A visit to the Pap of Glencoe is recommended, for where the desent to the road is via a return to the bealach.
Muriel Grey climbing the Aonach Eagach
North
Garbh Bheinn
Mucky start and gravel climb up an obvious route to the summit of a fine Corbett above the southern shore of Loch Leven.
East
Shepherd of Etive
Popular peaks guarding the eastern approach to Glencoe. Etive Mor is the iconic Scottish Mountain.
South-west
Sgor na h-Ulaidh and Beinn Fhionnlaidh
Mountains with hidden craggy sides, however, an excellent track from the east in Glen Etive makes them very accessible.
West
Beinn a'Bheithir
The 'thunderbolt mountain' gives a fantastic quick hill run, or a delightful scramble - you choose. Super views !