Càrn Bàn, Beinn a' Chaisteil and neighbours

Gorge on River Carron

North of Inverness, the A9 heads over the Black Isle to the Dornoch Firth, at the head of which is Ardgay. A narrow road heads westwards from this village, at the end of which is a turning area by the entrances to Glencalvie Estate and Alladale Wilderness Reserve.

By the turning area there is limited parking for a few vehicles. If full, there are several roadside laybys on the road approach.

Bridge by Deanich Lodge

From the car-park, head west along the road into Alladale Estate. Around 500m after setting off, there is a small sign on the left indicating a short walking detour to view the Eas Charron. Around 2km further on you'll come to junction by an information board.

At the junction, turn left and head down to a bridge over the River Carron. Over the bridge, around a barrier, begin to head uphill. At a sharp corner, ignore the track heading straight on and instead continue uphill aiming south-east.

Through woodland the track turns south-west as it hugs Alladale's large deer-fence and begins to drop into Gleann Mòr. The track reaches some cow sheds (some friendly highland cows were here on my last visit), shortly after which the end of the deer-fence is passed and a delightful cycle then continues in more open aspect for the next 7km with Meall a' Chaorainn in view ahead.

A bridge over the Abhainn a' Ghlinne Mhòir is reached and crossed, thereafter passing Deanich Lodge, its outbuildings and some information boards.

The track now quite rough climbs to a junction , where turning left (south) leads to the track's highest point directly below Meall a' Chaorainn's steep heather clad slopes.

Hydro works below Beinn a' Chaisteil

Hydro works below Beinn a' Chaisteil

Beinn a' Chaisteil from the north

Above and ahead the hillside is completely clad in heather. A couple of lines breaking the heather look easier - alas these are the residue of recent landslides caused by rain where terrain is now very loose. Nope, to head uphill is simply a case of head down and trudging up through the heather !

Before long the hillside's gradient begins to ease and heather becomes more stunted. Gradually heather is replaced by grass as Beinn a' Chaisteil's wide plateau crest is reached.

Càrn Chuinneag from Beinn a' Chaisteil summit

Càrn Chuinneag from Beinn a' Chaisteil summit

Crags of Cail Mhòr below Càrn Ban

Return along Beinn a' Chaisteil's wide crest and descend down to the hydro-works to pick up your bike. On the track, cycle back to the high point and descend to the junction above Deanich Lodge.

Turn left at the junction and cycle for just over 1km to reach a bridge over the Abainn a' Ghlinne Mhòr. Over the bridge, turn right at the next junction and climb up to the end of the track below some hydro works and an impressive waterfall. Leave your bike here.

A tiny cairn by the track marks the start of an old stalkers path heading uphill. The path is soggy and overgrown, but is much easier to stick to this than the deep heather alternative !

The path is followed to around 700m where is ends by a small cairn . From here on navigation becomes tougher as grass, heather and peathags are crossed while aiming north-west.

The gentle slopes of Càrn Bàn's southern top are hiked and once the height of this is reached, a path begins to form. A delightful walk or run follows this path as it makes its way through grass and onto Càrn Bàn's summit .

A small cairn rests on the highest point from where views are rather fine, particularly over to Assynt and Coigach.

Appoaching Càrn Bàn's summit from the south

Appoaching Càrn Bàn's summit from the south

Meall a' Chaorainn rises steeply above the high point on the track (the distance, ascent and timing given below are measured from this point). From here the climb is short but sharp, gaining over 270m in a distance of around 500m, giving an average incline of more than 0.5, and steeper still in places midway. The slope is heather-clad but generally firm, and even on the steepest sections the heather provides useful handholds for the ascent.

The summit is a flat, open top marked by a small pile of stones. Views are good rather than expansive, as Meall a' Chaorainn is enclosed by higher hills on most sides, though Beinn Dearg stands out and there are pleasing views down Strath Vaich.

Looking down Strathvaich from near Meall a' Chaorainn's summit

330m/5km/1:50hr

Looking down Strathvaich from near Meall a' Chaorainn's summit

Beinn Tharsuinn from Loch Crom

Largely hidden from view within the surrounding glens, Beinn Tharsuinn is a modest and unassuming hill, though the approach from the west is an enjoyable one, following a lively burn with a series of small waterfalls to the loch below its western slopes.

The route to Beinn Tharsuinn begins at the high point on the track , from where the track is followed past the start of the Beinn a' Chaisteil route to its end at a small hydro dam (the distance, ascent and timing given below are measured from this point).

Crossing the dam, the route turns right and climbs gently uphill alongside the Allt Crom-loch. One of several deer trods are picked up and followed - these trod are initially numerous but gradually converge into a single faint path, which mostly keeps to the northern bank of the burn and provides pleasant going.

Crom Loch is reached, with the faint path continuing around its northern shore to a small beach at the eastern end. Leaving the loch here, a direct climb up gentle, heather-covered slopes - becoming easier higher up - leads onto the summit of Beinn Tharsuinn , marked by a small cairn.

On Beinn Tharsuinn's summit looking to Càrn Chuinneag

360m/9km/2:50hr

On Beinn Tharsuinn's summit looking to Càrn Chuinneag

After completing the hills in this remote area, the route is retraced to the bike before beginning the cycle back through Gleann Mhòr, ideally with a following wind.

Mist forming and light fading on a December return through Gleann Mhòr

Mist forming and light fading on a December return through Gleann Mhòr

Private road through Strath Vaich

An alternative approach into the area starts from the roadside by Black Bridge, just east of the Aultguish Inn, where a tarred private road heads north through the Strathvaich Estate.

Approaching Càrn Bàn and Beinn a' Chaisteil from this direction gives a route of similar length and ascent to the Gleann Mhòr option, with particularly fine scenery once beyond Loch Vaich dam. The more accessible start point suggests this is probably the more frequently used approach.

There are, however, a few drawbacks. The road around Lubriach can be heavily mucked up by livestock, and the track for around a kilometre beyond is often wet and muddy. The resident cows also appeared rather less accommodating than their counterparts in Gleann Mhòr.

On the plus side, for those with plenty of energy, this approach opens up the possibility of linking Beinn a' Chaisteil and Càrn Bàn with Seana Bhraigh and Am Faochagach , creating a superb and demanding high-level circuit, perhaps best tackled as a two-day backpack.

940m/24km/5:20hr