Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh & Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh route

From Sligachan on the A87, take the A863 west towards Carbost. Shortly before reaching the village, turn left at a junction near a rough campsite, following signs for Glen Brittle.

This single-track road, with frequent passing places, crosses open moorland and forestry before descending into Glen Brittle. On the way it passes the Fairy Pools car-park and crosses the River Brittle before reaching the Glenbrittle Youth Hostel, where this route begins.

Limited parking is available opposite the hostel - if full, there is a rough area to park by the bridge over the River Brittle - avoid using passing places to park.

From the hostel, a well-constructed - though now somewhat worn - path heads east along the southern bank of the Allt a' Choire Ghreadaidh. It climbs steadily, passing scenic waterfalls, gradually revealing the intricacies of the Cuillin ridge ahead.

Around 2km after leaving the hostel, the path crosses the river . Take care here - the rockbed can be slippery even in low water. It may be safer to cross slightly upstream.

Now on the north side of the burn, the path becomes less defined. It continues to climb gently, turning first north, then east, before crossing back over the river - now little more than a burn - and ascending over rocky ground into Coire an Dorus.

Leaving the grass-covered terrain behind, a faint path leads directly toward An Dorus - the dark, narrow gully between Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh and Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh.

The terrain becomes increasingly bouldery and loose, a bit reminiscent of the Great Stone Chute on Sgùrr Alasdair. The path twists and turns steeply upward, and as the top of the gully is approached, a final scramble over rock leads to An Dorus . True to its name - 'the door' - dramatic views open up to the east.

From An Dorus, face the rock on the Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh side and begin scrambling up a slab. After a few metres, move left (west) where the start of a faint path is found and the scrambling easies - terrain from here is stony and loose but progress is relatively straightforward.

Follow the twisting line north, then east, as it rises onto Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh's crest. The summit a short distance away.

Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh's summit offers an airy and scenic perch, with a fine outlook over the jagged ridge stretching over the mountain's other tops with the skyline of the northern Cuillin silhouetted behind.

Return to An Dorus via the route taken up.

From the top of An Dorus, the wall on the Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh side is sheer and higher than that on the Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh side, with the route up being somewhat more tricky and exposed.

Begin the climb up toward Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh by starting slightly to the right (west) of the top of An Dorus, then heading up the rock gradually angling leftwards. Though short, the scrambling here is exposed but generally with solid holds.

Above this, the route turns right and eases into airy ridge walking aiming southwards.

The dramatic Eag Dubh (Black Notch) , a dark cleft on the Glenbrittle side, is passed - perhaps looking like a potential alternative ascent or descent route, I've never attempted to squeeze up or down it.

Passing Eag Dubh, continue over a slightly awkward slab above a stone-filled gully dropping to Loch Coruisk where some caution is required. Once past this, a straightfoward ridgewalk leads upwards.

On loose stoney ground, bypass 'The Wart' - a prominent overhanging rock feature - on the right (west), and continue up to the small cairn standing on Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh's summit . The views are outstanding northwards and southwards along the Cuillin Ridge.

Re-tracing steps with a fine view of Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh ahead, return back to An Dorus, then descend carefully down the scree to regain the Coire a' Ghreadaidh path back to Glenbrittle.

From Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh, continuing north over the mountain's other summits involves serious scrambling and climbing. I've watched as climbers have faced the challenges of its three tops, but never been over these - perhaps one day.

From Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh, the ridge southward is narrow and sustained - over Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh's southern top, the route drops, heads around the 'Three Teeth' and over Sgùrr Thormaid before climbing up Sgùrr na Banachdich's north-eastern arm. More details of continuing on this route can be found on the Cuillin South page.