Northern Cuillin Munros Scrambling Route

Sgùrr nan Gillean and Am Bàsteir from Slighachan

Sligachan, located at the junction of the A87 and A863, serves as the gateway to this spectacular route. There is a campsite and hotel and just behind the hotel is the Mountain Rescue Hut. A long layby in front of the hut provides ample parking, though please ensure you don't block access. If the layby is full, parking by the hotel is generally permitted.

On Sgùrr nan Gillean's 'Tourist Route'

From the parking area, cross the road and follow a path over a narrow wooden bridge spanning the Allt Dearg Mòr. The trail ascends towards the dramatic Bhasteir Gorge before reaching another wooden bridge after 2km - use this to cross the Allt Dearg Beag.

Once over, follow the maintained path leading southwards as it climbs gently , then drops slightly before entering Coire Riabhach .

As the path climbs once more, it becomes less distinct, weaving through boulders and scree. Higher up, the coire is exited and ground becomes more level with the path veering slightly to the right below rocks. Facing southwest, the gradient steepens beside a small trickling burn, often heard rather than seen beneath the rocks.

Below a buttress , the path splits - stick to the left, clambering up some steep ground. The gradient levels a little where a straightforward hike with a few patches of scree and clambering around rock leads onto Sgùrr nan Gillean's south-east ridge , the so-called 'Tourist Route'. Here, breathtaking views of the Southern Cuillin abruptly unfold - but keep your focus on your footwork !

Turning north-west, initially the route follows the crest of the ridge. Progressively the terrain becomes more challenging and further on, the route comes to some steep rock, with a cleft running up the middle of it - take this head on.

Above this is some brief respite, then the trickiest part of the ridge is met - a steep section of rock blocking the way. Turn around the left of this to climb to a ledge - from here it looks like the way to continue is to keep to the left, but alas this leads to more difficulties. Instead, from the ledge, lean slightly to the right and head up back onto the crest. An exposed slab then needs crossed from where a fairly straightforward but airy walk leads onto Sgùrr nan Gillean's summit crest.

The trickiest part of the 'Tourist Route' !

The trickiest part of the 'Tourist Route' !

On Sgùrr nan Gillean's summit looking over Am Bàsteir to Bruach na Frithe

The easiest route off Sgùrr nan Gillean is to retrace the 'Tourist Route' back down !

Onwards towards Am Bàsteir continues via Sgùrr nan Gillean's West Ridge and is slightly more tricky than the 'Tourist Route'. For most hillwalkers this route will involve an abseil, therefore requires the use of a rope.

The descent towards Sgùrr nan Gillean's West Ridge is not immediately obvious - looking north-west from the summit, look slightly to the right of the crest ahead to locate a route leading down to a ledge. Once on the ledge, cross onto the south side of the crest and squeeze through a hole in the rock. From here, the descent following the crest of the West Ridge is more straightforward for a while, most of which is on stoney ground.

Sgùrr nan Gillean's West Ridge and Tooth Chimney from Bealach a' Bhàsteir

Sgùrr nan Gillean's West Ridge and Tooth Chimney from Bealach a' Bhàsteir

Route up Am Bàsteir as seen from Sgùrr a' Fhionn Choire, with alternative shown dotted

On Bealach a' Bhàsteir, continue along the crest toward Am Bàsteir's east ridge, noting the paths leading down into Coire a' Bhàsteir. The loose, stony ground soon gives way to more solid rock as the terrain begins to steepen.

Ahead, stick slightly left of the crest on a fairly well-worn path, before rejoining the ridge a little higher up.

An abrupt and awkward descent - the 'Bad Step' - blocks the way, with no obvious alternative. While this short drop may look intimidating at first and some people may prefer the security of a rope, it is easier than it appears. To scramble down, turn around, face the rock, and carefully lower yourself down - the rock is solid and small crevasses are to be found for handholds and secure footing.

Once on the security of the small platform below the 'Bad Step', a short walk with some clambering leads directly to Am Bàsteir's summit .

Abseiling down Am Bàsteir's bad step

Abseiling down Am Bàsteir's bad step

Climbers on Am Bàsteir and abseiling off the Basteir Tooth

As a confident scrambler - but not a climber - I've often peered over Am Bàsteir's western edge, looking down at the Basteir Tooth below. It's a vertigo-inducing sight, and for that reason, I've never attempted a descent from the summit in this direction. For hillwalkers and scramblers, the only practical route to continue toward Bruach na Frithe is first to retrace your steps along Am Bàsteir's east ridge back to Bealach a' Bhàsteir .

From the bealach, take one of the paths descending northward down scree slopes into Coire a' Bhàsteir. After losing some height, the paths merge and curve northwest, arriving at a junction . Turning right here provides an escape route, following the Allt Dearg Beag out of Coire a' Bhàsteir and back to Sligachan via the initial approach path to Coire Riabhach.

Turning left at the junction leads to a steep trudge up loose scree beneath the towering cliffs of Am Bàsteir, eventually reaching Bealach nan Lice .

For those keen to climb the Basteir Tooth, it can be accessed via a slanting ledge near the base of the screes on the south side of Bealach nan Lice. I've done this a couple of times - on my second ascent, I had the incredible luck of meeting Skye legend Gerry Akroyd, who was guiding a client and kindly let me join them for the climb up Am Bàsteir !

Directly above Bealach nan Lice, the minor summits of Sgùrr a' Fionn Choire and Sgùrr a' Bhàsteir offer outstanding viewpoints, with only some easy scrambling required to reach them.

To continue to Bruach na Frithe from Bealach nan Lice, follow the well-worn path westward around Fionn Choire and beneath Sgùrr a' Fionn Choire's summit, eventually reaching the crest of Bruach na Frithe's broad eastern ridge . The final stretch to the summit involves some light scrambling, but for the most part, it's a straightforward walk.

View south from Bruach na Frithe's summit over the Cuillin Ridge

View south from Bruach na Frithe's summit over the Cuillin Ridge

Returning along Bruach na Frithe's eastern ridge, Sgùrr a' Fionn Choire, Am Bàsteir and Sgùrr nan Gillean ahead

The most straightforward option for a return to Sligachan begins with retracing your steps back along Bruach na Frithe's eastern ridge. Upon approaching the lowest part of the ridge , leave it and begin to descend into Fionn Choire - rough at first and involving a little clambering, but lower down a well-defined path cuts a route through scree.

Further on, the path follows the Allt an Fhionn-choire downhill and arrives at a grassy area at a height of approximately 600m . The path continues north-west meeting with a path from Glenbrittle to return to Sligachan following the Allt Dearg Mòr.

Rather than continuing directly down on the path at the grassy area, leave the path and head northeast and climb slightly to reach the flat area topping Meall Odhar , a minor top on Sgùrr a' Bhàsteir's northern spur. From here, the dramatic Pinnacle Ridge of Sgùrr nan Gillean dominates the skyline on your right.

Walking out Fionn Choire, Pinnacle Ridge of Sgùrr nan Gillean in view

Walking out Fionn Choire, Pinnacle Ridge of Sgùrr nan Gillean in view

Scrambling begins on Sgùrr nan Gillean's West Ridge

Sgùrr nan Gillean via Pinnacle Ridge

From Sligachan, follow the route over the Allt Dearg Beag to the highest point before descending into Coire Riabhach. Look for cairns and a faint path heading southwest toward Sgùrr nan Gillean's summit.

The terrain steepens, requiring occasional easy scrambling over the first two pinnacles. Scrambling becomes more sustained to reach the third pinnacle, where an abseil through a hole in the rock leads to a small gully below.

From the gully, carefully descend slightly before scrambling up Knight's Peak. Some more focussed scrambling is needed to descend from Knight's Peak, crossing a gap before contouring right around Sgùrr nan Gillean's north face. Just a steep walk with some easy scrambling is all that remains to reach Sgùrr nan Gillean's West Ridge and onto its summit .



Bruach na Frithe from Glenbrittle

At the head of Glenbrittle, a large car park accommodates the many visitors to the Fairy Pools. The route to Bruach na Frithe also begins here.

Across the road from the car park, a right-of-way sign marks the path to Sligachan. Start on this well-defined path but quickly leave it for a fainter trail on the left, which crosses a burn (potentially dangerous in spate) and leads to the edge of the forestry. Follow this path for nearly 3km to its highest point by a lochan , then gradually turn south-southeast, ascending onto Bruach na Frithe's northern shoulder.

As the gradient steepens, grassy slopes give way to scree through which paths can be seen climbing. Higher up, some easy scrambling is required to stay on the ridge before reaching the trig point at Bruach na Frithe's summit .

The route from Glenbrittle to Bruach na Frithe

The route from Glenbrittle to Bruach na Frithe