Inaccessible Pinnacle and Sgùrr Mhic Chòinnich

From Sligachan on the A87, take the A863 west towards Carbost. Shortly before entering Carbost, turn left at a junction near a rough campsite, following signs for Glen Brittle.

This single-track road, with frequent passing places, crosses moorland and heads through forestry plantations before descending into Glen Brittle. It passes the large car park for the Fairy Pools and continues down the glen past the Glenbrittle Youth Hostel and onto Glenbrittle Memorial Hut.

The route begins by the hut and there is limited parking is available opposite. If full, there is verge side parking elsewhere, but take care not to block entrances or park in passing places.

A path begins just south of the hut, beside the remnants of old sheep sheilings, and rises gently across grassy slopes. It soon crosses a footbridge over the Allt Coire na Banachdich, then follows the river's southern bank, passing a series of waterfalls.

At a junction with a faint path on the left (leading into Coire na Banachdich), the main route continues ahead. A short distance further, another junction is reached 1 - this time, the fainter path on the left is taken. It aims toward the base of Sgùrr Dearg, meandering gently over open moorland (the more defined path continues to Coire Làgan and will be used for the return).

Beyond the lower slopes, the terrain quickly shifts to loose scree and scattered boulders. The path weaves and twists steeply upward. Around the 400m contour, some easy scrambling is encountered while ascending the next 150m of height before the gradient eases and firmer footing is regained.

Higher up, the ground becomes increasingly rocky. At roughly 800m 2, the route grows more complex. The natural angle of the rock may draw one toward Coire Làgan, but this should be resisted. Instead, the faint path should be followed, keeping close to the crest while on its southern edge.

Rounding a corner, the Inaccessible Pinnacle appears suddenly and dramatically - its sheer vertical western face rising in stark contrast to the longer eastern crest. The ground eases slightly, and the top of Sgùrr Dearg 3 is soon attained.

From Sgùrr Dearg's top, a descent is made over loose stones to reach the base of the Inaccessible Pinnacle. Traversing beneath its southern face, the route curves toward the eastern end, arriving near the top of An Stac 4.

There may be a short wait, as climbers often gather here, following an informal one-way system - the ascent is made via the eastern crest, with a descent by abseil down the steep western face. Though graded only as a 'Moderate' climb, it is the exposure, not the technicality, that often proves the true challenge.

The climb begins at the base of the rock, with a short ascent up a groove before stepping out onto the narrow crest. The scramble continues directly along and up the crest, with just one moderately difficult move involving a section of rock that feels loose, though it remains well wedged. When roped, the route is often divided into two pitches, with a belay stance midway. The upper half is slightly less steep and generally easier. On the top is the 'Bolster Stone' 5 with most climbers being content to touch it rather than stand atop it !

Beneath the Bolster Stone, a wire loop has been fixed to allow for the setup of abseil gear. The descent down the sheer western face of the Pinnacle leads safely back onto the slopes of Sgùrr Dearg - an ideal vantage point to sit, recover, and watch others face the route just completed.

Leaving the summit of Sgùrr Dearg 3, the route drops below the southern side of the Inaccessible Pinnacle. A faint path, etched into the loose scree and stone, is followed downwards - keeping close to the base of solid rock on the left. The path skirts beneath An Stac before briefly swinging southeast. A tempting scree-run veering off to the right (south) should be avoided - it leads only to a dead end.

Continuing eastward, the descent over unstable ground persists, always staying beneath the bulk of An Stac, until the Bealach Coire Làgan 6 is reached - positioned just above the head of the An Stac Screes.

From the bealach, the ridge ahead is traced upward with a short section of easy scrambling around minor rock outcrops, leading onto a welcome flat area that offers a brief pause. A straightforward walk follows, heading south toward the base of Sgùrr Mhic Chòinnich's northern ridge.

Keeping slightly to the Coire Làgan (east) side of the crest, a scramble up dark rock begins. Route-finding here may involve a little trial and error - look out for crampon scratch marks as clues to the line - but the scrambling remains relatively straightforward.

A small notch 7 in the ridge is crossed, revealing the top of Collie's Ledge off to the right. Remaining on the crest, the route emerges from the nick and continues upward. From here, the scrambling becomes more sustained and notably more exposed. Two key sections are encountered: one, after another minor nick, where a steep knoll requiring a direct climb, and another where keeping to the left (eastern) side of the crest becomes dangerously loose - a slip here would have serious consequences.

The summit of Sgùrr Mhic Chòinnich 8 is finally reached - a small, sharp top with some modest shelter tucked beneath the west side. Some remains of an old memorial plaque can still be found embedded into the summit cairn.

For those wanting to continue along the Cuillin Ridge, a direct descent from Sgùrr Mhic Chòinnich can be made by abseiling down King's Chimney.

Alternatively, after returning along Sgùrr Mhic Chòinnich's northern ridge to the notch 7, a technically easier route traverses the rather exposed Collie's Ledge.

Both of these routes lead to Bealach Mhic Choinnich, where an exposed, but relatively straightforward scramble climbs to Sgùrr Theàrlaich.

More information on these can be found on the Cuillin South page.

To begin a return to Glenbrittle, from Sgùrr Mhic Chòinnich's summit, about turn and return along its northern ridge to Bealach Coire Làgan and the top of the An Stac Screes. For confident scree-runners - and those with sturdy knees - a direct descent of the An Stac Screes is rapid and satisfying. Others may find it laborious.

A path eventually forms, guiding the way down to Lochan Coire Làgan 9. Though not quite as dramatic as Coire Ghrunnda, Coire Làgan offers a fine, sheltered spot to pause and reflect on the scramble just completed.

From the lochan, the route out of the coire is clear, following a rough and often eroded path. Just under a kilometre from the lochan, the path splits 10 - take the higher branch on the right to rejoin the earlier ascent path and follow it back to Glenbrittle.

Lying to the north of Sgùrr Dearg, Sgùrr na Banachdich is connected by some of the more straightforward sections of the Cuillin Ridge, though higher up on the crest approaching the summit, things can get a little 'hairy' !

From the summit of Sgùrr Dearg, the ridge is followed a short distance northward. To the left (west), a selection of three or four faint paths can be seen threading down stony ground and loose scree. One of these is taken, and the paths soon merge, descending with a little easy scrambling to a small rock window that neatly frames Bla Bheinn to the east. Beyond this, further simple scrambling leads down to Bealach Coire na Banachdich 11.

Crossing the bealach, the ridge is followed as it curves northwest, bypasses the top of Sròn Bhuidhe and begins to rise once more. Initially, the path clings to the crest, but further on, it becomes less defined and eventually splits 12 - one branch heading left below the ridge, the other remaining on the crest itself.

Remaining on the crest involves scrambling that reaches Grade 2, weaving over a couple of minor tops, the higher of which is quite exposed. The left-hand variation avoids the scrambling but requires a descent in height, followed by a re-ascent over steep and loose terrain with some route-finding that can feel uncertain or vague.

Once beyond the highest of these tops, the ridge broadens and the going becomes significantly easier. A final gentle rise leads onto the main northern summit of Sgùrr na Banachdich 13, with grand views opening in every direction.

The descent from Sgùrr na Banachdich down Coir' an Eich is generally straightforward and when taken in reverse is the most straightforward route to reach its summit.

From Sgùrr na Banachdich's summit, a path leads northwest and after losing roughly 150 metres of elevation, a fork is reached - here, the right-hand branch is taken, descending into Coir' an Eich. Some scree needs negotiating, but the angle soon lessens and the descent becomes more comfortable.

The path eventually merges with another descending from Coire a' Ghreadaidh, and follows the southern bank of the Allt a' Choire Ghreadaidh.

The trail leads to Glenbrittle Youth Hostel, passing some large and beautiful waterfalls - an uplifting finale to a fine Cuillin outing.

Instead of descending to Glenbrittle from Sgùrr na Banachdich, a route northeast from its summit can be made onwards towards Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh and Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh - details of this are on the Cuillin South page.