Ladhar Bheinn and neighbours from Inverie

Approaching Inverie on the Western Isles ferry

North-west of Fort William, the mainland peninsula of Knoydart overlooks the Sound of Sleat towards Skye. No roads reach this rugged land, therefore access is either via one of the long paths from Kinlochhourn or Glendessary to the east or via the passenger ferry sailing from Mallaig (see Western Isles Cruises).

There is a thriving community in Knoydart, with most of the activity based in Inverie. From camping to bunkhouse and guest house, there are various places to stay, there's a shop, café and post office along with the Old Forge Inn - Britain's remotest pub !

More information on places to stay and eat can be found on the VisitKnoydart website.

On Ladhar Bheinn's trig

With some fine estate tracks on the first 6km of this route and a further 6km on the return, the use of a bike for this route to Ladhar Bheinn is highly recommended !

By Inverie's pier, head north-east up a rough track to a junction. Turn left and continue uphill on the track for just over 1km to reach the forest edge. Now on a more gentle climb across the Mam Uidhe, the track aims towards more forestry and reaches a junction . Turning right into the forest, the track heads into Gleann na Guiserein to drop down to follow the course of the Abhainn Inbhir Ghuiserein upstream.

Reaching the meeting of the two rivers that form the Abhainn Inbhir Ghuiserein, the track continues eastwards to end by a wooden bridge that crosses one of these tributaries. Just beyond the bridge is the ruin of Folach - if cycling, leave bikes here.

On foot, follow the west bank of a burn tumbling down from Coire Garbh above. Although there is no path to follow, progress is on a delightful grass-covered gently rising slope. Higher up the gradient steepens, but there are no difficulties encountered to gain the flat ground on the crest of Ladhar Bheinn's western shoulder .

Turning eastwards, the rise ahead looks rough with some lines of rock crossing the hillside. The route up is actually fairly straightforward and higher up, leaving the lines of rock behind, a path gradually begins to form on the grass-covered shoulder.

On the track out, Ladhar Bheinn behind

On the track out, Ladhar Bheinn behind

Slochd a' Mhogha below Sgurr Coire Choinnichean

Sgurr Coire Choinnichean is the Corbett peak directly above Inverie. From the summit of Ladhar Bheinn it is an 8km hike to reach the summit of Sgurr Coire Choinnichean, which may persuade hillwalkers to bag it on its own.

If contemplating bagging Ladhar Bheinn and Sgurr Coire Choinnichean in a circuit, I'd recommend hiking the route anti-clockwise, leaving a pleasant gentle walk out at the end of the day, rather than the necessary steep descent on tired knees if taking a clockwise route.

From the heart of Inverie, either just by the Old Forge Inn, or from the pier, take one of the tracks heading directly uphill into forestry, much of which has been felled. A path leads to the edge of the forest plantations and continues north-east on a grass-covered slope.

The impressive gorge of Slochd a' Mhogha comes into view, with the path making its way up its western side to gain the moorland above it. Turning south-east and climbing gently, some rocky terrain is by-passed while aiming for the base of Sgurr Coire Choinnichean's south-western shoulder .

On Sgurr Coire Choinnichean's western shoulder

On Sgurr Coire Choinnichean's western shoulder

Ladhar Bheinn from Sgurr Coire Choinnichean

Leaving Sgurr Coire Choinnichean's summit behind, the faint path can be traced eastwards across a wide grass-covered crest, much in contrast to the fairly narrow western shoulder ascended earlier.

The route drops to the wide bealach of Mam Suidheig, then climbs gradually up, and occasionally around, a series of minor bumps along the Aonach Sgoilte ('school ridge') to reach an un-named high point at its eastern end (marked on maps with a spot height of 849m).

From the un-named summit, a worn path is picked up heading north-west aiming for Ladhar Bheinn, still some 2km away.

Following the wide grass-covered and rippling crest above Coire Dhorrcail, a minor summit is passed, followed by another which involves a short stiff scramble to progress over.

The path continues following the shoulder ahead up to a minor top on Ladhar Bheinn's summit crest - this is the point where another ridge joins from Stob a' Choire Odhair to the north-east and from where a superb view is given down over Barisdale Bay and Loch Hourn.

Ladhar Bheinn from the top of Aonach Sgoilte

Ladhar Bheinn from the top of Aonach Sgoilte

Heading up Beinn na Caillich, looking back to Sgurr Coire Choinnichean

Beinn na Caillich is the remotest significant peak on the Knoydart peninsula, but it has possibly the easiest summit to bag !

From Inverie, follow the route described above towards Ladhar Bheinn, through the forests to the point where the two rivers that form the Abhainn Inbhir Ghuiserein meet .

If conditions are favourable, it should be straightforward to hop over some boulders and cross the Allt Coire Torr an Asgaill. If river levels are a tad high, detour to the bridge 300m further on.

Now aside the eastern bank of the Abhainn Bheag, follow a rough track heading northwards upstream. The path crosses a tributary then heads around more forestry, passing some more beautiful waterfalls.

Beinn na Caillich from Mullach Li to the east

Beinn na Caillich from Mullach Li to the east