Aonach Eagach traverse

On the A82 in the heart of Glencoe there are two large car-parks looking over to the impressive buttresses of the Three Sisters of Glencoe. Just up the road from these car-parks and on the other side of the road there is a rough smaller car-park with room for around 5 or 6 vehicles - the route starts from here.

This route finishes down the glen, just east of Loch Achtriochtan - a path tracing the line of the old road connects the start and end points.

From the rough car-park, aim uphill on an obvious path climbing steeply aimming eastwards. The path turns northwards and meets some old iron fence-posts, and then climbs another 200m of ascent where there are a couple of options .

The route from this point that most people take heads directly uphill north-westwards, following the path, rough and loose in places with a few hands-out-of-pockets moves, ending up on the summit of Am Bodach .

Alternatively, a better route follows faint traces of an older path that initially heads right under a buttress of rock to pick up the banks of the Allt Ruigh. Crossing this burn a couple of times (a good place to top up water-bottles), a final grassy ascent leads onto the crest between Sròn Ghairbh and Am Bodach for a superb view along the Aonach Eagach towards Meall Dearg. A rough ascent up bouldery ground gains the summit of Am Bodach .

After taking in the views from Am Bodach (stunning over the Mamores to Ben Nevis), the next bit is slightly tricky and sets the scene for the the traverse of the Aonach Eagach.

From Am Bodach's summit follow the path north-west and it comes to a sudden and sharp drop. The drop is around 20m or so and looks a lot more difficult to climb down than it actually is, though it can be slippy if wet. Keeping to the north side of the crest, start to descend, the route quickly switches back left (south), and drops in a series of big steps to the safety of the path below. You'll know if you're on the right route if you can see the fence-post and crampon-marks !

This awkward bit done, there's some easy rocky ground to reach the bealach between Am Bodach and the Aonach Eagach's east Munro, Meall Dearg. Continue westwards, passing occasional fence-posts and The Chancellor - a huge drop on the south side of the ridge - and reach the Munro summit of Meall Dearg .

From Meall Dearg's summit, continue west on the obvious and well-worn path downhill following the crest of the ridge.

A narrow gap is followed by a climb of 15m up a chimney (much easier than it looks), then continue along the distinct path on ridge's crest, some short sections of easy scrambling and rough moves on the way.

Eventually the crux of the ridge, the 'Crazy Pinnacles' , is reached with drops on both sides. A path descending westwards on the north side of the ridge looks like a bypass path - it's not, it's a dead end ! Keeping to the ridge and on its north side manouvre yourself by hugging the two pinnacles - it looks daunting, but again it's actually easier than it looks - there are good handholds to be found.

You'll now be confronted with a short steep exposed rise, there is no option but to head straight up it - again it's easier than it looks !

(pic courtesy Al Halewood)

That's the real difficulties over with ! Continue along the ridge tackling a few more easy rock-scrambling bits on the way and reach Stob Coire Lèith .

The path continues along the ridge over easy ground to a bealach , then goes up some patches of scree and boulders to the cairn on Sgòrr nam Fiannaidh . Superb views in all directions, particularly back along the ridge just done.

My personal choice begins with a return to the bealach , then descending initially on steep, loose scree, heading directly downhill. Traces of path can be picked up on the scree, with the route turning south-west and including some sections of excellent running scree - great fun bounding down.

Lower down, the scree gives way to grass and a couple of paths can be picked up to descend to the A82. One follows the Allt an t-Sidhein to the western end of Loch Achtriochtan, while the other heads directly for the long lay-by to the east of the loch.

Other descent options are available. A worthwhile alternative is to continue west then descend Cnap Glas to climb Sgòrr na Ciche (the Pap of Glencoe) , adding one of Scotland's most distinctive mountains before descending on its well-defined path to Glencoe Village, around 2km north of the Clachaig Inn.