Beinn an Eòin from Loch Lurgainn

North of Ullapool, the A835 is followed north-east through Coigach towards Ledmore Junction. Roughly halfway between Ullapool and the junction, a small cluster of houses marks Drumrunie. Immediately south of these, a narrow unclassified road branches westwards towards Achiltibuie.

Turning onto this road, it is followed for around 2km as it twists west. Just before the road begins to descend towards Loch Lurgainn, a couple of rough parking areas are found on bends in the road. These provide the best places to park, as although the hill route begins a further 1km down the road, there are no suitable parking spots beyond this point — only passing places, which should not be blocked.

From the parking area, the road is followed downhill towards Loch Lurgainn. Shortly before reaching the loch, a faint and muddy path 1 heads off left between gorse bushes; this is easily missed. The path crosses damp grass to reach a gate 2 in a deer fence, accompanied by an unusually stern warning sign advising hillwalkers to enter entirely at their own risk — a rather over-the-top disclaimer for what is, in reality, normal open hill ground.

Beyond the gate, stepping stones cross the Allt na Coise Gille, after which the line of the deer fence is followed over undulating, heather-covered ground for around 500m. The fence then turns north-west 3 and is left behind. A series of deer trods — some clear, others less so — can be picked up and followed westwards, easing progress through otherwise dense heather.

The climb remains gentle, passing through sparse birch woodland before emerging onto open moorland below the flanks of Cioch Beinn an Eòin, a minor top on the ridge above, whose rocky ribs line its hillside. Deer trods again assist the ascent, which continues diagonally up the slope to reach Beinn an Eòin’s crest at a shallow col 4, south-west of Cioch Beinn an Eòin.

From the col, Beinn an Eòin comes into view directly ahead, along with the minor summits of Sgòrr Deas and Sgòrr Tuath, separated by a broad bealach between them. A pleasant ascent over a mix of grass, heather and occasional sandstone slabs leads towards a minor summit 5 marked 525m on the map, its north-western flank lined by a low but well-defined band of sandstone crags.

Beyond this point the slope steepens slightly, before easing onto Beinn an Eòin’s summit 6, where a modest and rather token cairn marks the high point.

Despite its modest height, the views from Beinn an Eòin's summit are outstanding, taking in the distinctive outline of Sgùrr an Fhidhleir and Beinn More Coigach to the south and Stac Pollaidh, Cùl Beag and other rugged hills of northern Coigach.

The simplest return is made by retracing the outward route, with fine views opening up ahead on the descent.

I had intended to continue over Sgòrr Deas, cross Bealach Beinn an Eòin and climb Sgòrr Tuath, returning via Coire Beinn an Eoin — the dashed line shown on the map — but with it being January, limited daylight and exceptionally strong winds, pressing on over exposed sandstone ground seemed a poor choice.