Letterewe Corbetts from Poolewe

Sunset over Poolewe bay

North-west of Inverness the A832 does a loop around the Fannichs, Letterewe and Fisherfield, most of which is on the NC500. A few miles to the east of the road's most westerly point at Gairloch is the small village of Poolewe, where the waters from Loch Maree flow into the sea at Loch Ewe.

Parking for this route is best by the bridge over the River Ewe on the east bank of the river, where there is a designated parking area with room for around 10 vehicles and a box asking for donations towards the upkeep of the car park and surrounds.

There is another parking area on the opposite side of the river where there are also public convieniences.

If staying in the area, a visit to the Inverewe Gardens is recommended.

On the rough path around Loch Kersary

From Poolewe there are two fine routes heading into Kernsary, one begins by following the estate road on the east bank of the River Ewe and this is cyclable. A more picturesque route travels around the northern shore of Loch Kernsary, but is alas rather rough to allow cycling.

If on bike, begin from the car-park on east side of the bridge over River Ewe and cycle southwards on a tarred road. Into woodland, road passes through a gate, veers left at a junction then transitions to a smooth estate track. Out of woodland, the track turns more eastwards, heads through another gate and over a cattle grid to arrive at the houses and farm out-buildings at Kernsary .

Above the forest with Beinn àiRìgh Chàrr ahead

Above the forest with Beinn àiRìgh Chàrr ahead

On the way up Spidean nan Clach

If approaching by bike, cross over the bridge across Kernsary River, pass the nearby houses and farm buildings, head through a gate, then keep right heading uphill on the estate track. After heading through a small woodland, the track comes to a junction by a large post with the main track heading uphill - turn right on the fainter track heading into forestry.

The track is fairly decent, though some bits can be damp and soggy and some trees have been blown over - follow it for around 2km to the forest edge and head through a gate.

With Spidean nan Clach and Beinn Àirigh Chàrr in view ahead, head to the highest point on the track which is around 2km on from the gate - if cycling, leave bikes here.

Looking to hillside above, a route leaning to the right can be made out heading under a line of crags - hike up this, reaching the crest of Spidean nan Clach's north-western shoulder at around 350m.

If not cycling in from Poolewe, an alternative hiking option from Kernsary, is to take the fine estate track on the western bank of Kernsary River and follow it southwards as is climbs gently for just over 2km to get some lovely views over Loch Maree. Just before the track begins a descent to Loch Maree, take another fainter track off left which heads eastwards over grass. This track becomes more obvious as it climbs to a meeting between waters, thereafter a path takes over heading into Coire nan Dearcag. Higher up the path gradually disappears , from where a climb picking a grassy route between boulderfields and crags gains Spidean nan Clach's north-western shoulder.

Looking over Spidean nan Clach to Poolewe from Beinn AiRìgh Charr

Looking over Spidean nan Clach to Poolewe from Beinn AiRìgh Charr

Hiking up Meall Mheinnidh with Beinn àiRìgh Chàrr behind

Head southwards from Beinn Àirigh Chàrr's summit, losing around 100m of height while descending a pleasant grass-covered hillside. Upon reaching the top of Coire Reidh, turn south-east and drop down into this wide corrie, the grass and heather clad terrain make a for a pleasant bound.

Once onto the floor of Srathan Buidhe , cross over the path and burn which run through this glen, then look for a way up the hillside ahead. There are several options, all of which at some point will involve some clambering up steep heather-clad ground.

As the 500m contour is neared, the hillside's gradient becomes more gentle and progress becomes easier. Meall Mheinnidh can be by-passed from this point (see below).

A' Mhaighdean from Meall Mheinnidh's summit

A' Mhaighdean from Meall Mheinnidh's summit

Beinn Lair from Meall Mheinnidh's lochan

Head south-east from Meall Mheinnidh's summit to reach a small lochan , from where follow the course of its outflowing burn to lose height and gain the grass-covered ground below the hill's rocky south-facing hillside. Turn eastwards, aiming for Bealach Mheinnidh, to reach grassy ground and rocky knolls.

As mentioned above, Meall Mheinnidh can be by-passed. This is done by reaching a height of around 500m and then traversing grass-covered ground under the rocky slabs and lines of Meall Mheinnidh's south facing hillside.

Having reached the rocky knolls, cross grass-covered Bealach Mheinnidh with its fine path heading up from Loch Maree.

Ahead there are a few options - one is to take the southern shoulder above Coir' an Taoibh Riabhaich, another slightly more tedious route is to make a direct ascent to Beinn Lair by heading up Coir' an Taoibh Riabhaich.

The finest route up Beinn Lair however begins from a small cairn at the side of the path just by its highest point and follows the crest of the mountain's north-western shoulder, tracing the upper rim of cliffs above Gleann Tulacha. There is a faint path to follow for much of the way.

Beinn Lair's north facing crags

Beinn Lair's north facing crags

Carnmore below Sgùrr na Laocainn

Leaving Beinn Lair's huge cairn behind, return towards Bealach Mheinnidh .

If on the ascent of Beinn Lair, you headed up via Coir' an Taoibh Riabhaich, on the return, it's definitely worth tracing the upper edge of the cliffs lining the mountain's northern edge - on the way pausing to peer down the vast drops above Gleann Tulacha - the exposure is quite knee-wobbly !

Pick up the path travelling through Bealach Mheinnidh near its highest point . To the south this path is smooth and well constructed, but from the col northwards, it is worn, loose and rough.

Follow the rough path northwards downhill as it twists and turns towards Fionn Loch. The path comes to a junction below the dark cliffs of Creag Poll Fraochain, meeting up with the path coming from Kernsary then heads to the water's edge of Fionn Loch. Around the shore of the loch, the path comes to the causeway between Fionn Loch and Loch Dubh, then travels around the minor knoll of Càrn na Paite to near Carnmore Lodge , where it turns sharply eastwards.

Directly above Carnmore Lodge is a gap between the rocky spurs of Càrn Mòr and Sgùrr na Laocainn, down which a burn cascades. It is possible to clamber up this, initially on the west side of the burn, then crossing over higher up to reach more level ground below Beinn a' Chaisgein Mòr.

On my most recent visit however, the burn looked higher than before, so playing it safe, from Carnmore, I followed the path east above Dubh Loch around Sgùrr na Laocainn to begin an approach to Beinn a' Chaisgein Mòr from the south-east by the Allt Bruthach an Easain .

This route begins with much bounding over heather and although pathless, is straightforward. A pretty lochan is found on the way, with terrain being more grass-covered thereafter.

Fisherfield from Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor

Fisherfield from Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor

Path back to Carnmore and its nearby causeway

From Beinn a' Chaisgein Mòr's summit, about turn and retrace your steps back to Carnmore . Cross the causeway between Dubh Loch and Fionn Loch and follow the path to where you joined it at the path junction below Creag Poll Fraochain .

From the junction, head north-west above the shores of Fionn Loch following a well defined, if sometimes rather rough path. Your map may suggest that the path detours 500m down Srathan Buidhe - the path actually cuts straight across the head of the strath and over its burn - not sure what this would be like to cross in spate !

Camping by Fionn Loch

Camping by Fionn Loch